Knowledge: Leather parts
The right leather for the right part：Leather is a "creature"! They have "personality" depending on the parts! It’s important to use the right leather for the right part.
Leather has the natural shape of the animal it comes from. In the case of cowhide, the back is the hardest and gradually softens toward the abdomen. At the stage of tanning the leather, it is spread evenly, but the strength is clearly different depending on the area.
Here is some interesting information. One craftsman told me that, "World-famous brands only make 1 bag from a single piece of leather. When you consider the direction of the fibers, durability, and beauty, you can't help but come to that conclusion. It is the only way for a product to be used for generations." Leather fibers flow radially from the back, so in order to create a ‘non-distorted’ structure, one has to think about which part to cut out.
However, if such materials are used, the price range will generally be out of reach. For a durable leather item that is reasonably priced and affordable, you should choose one from a manufacturer that is made by a responsible and decent craftsman. Many people may have experienced their leather product stretched out as they used it. This may be due to the fact that it was made from leather around the abdomen. Also, craftsmen are not only concerned about leather parts. It is also important to select the seams and threads that match them. Many leather items are made using parts taken from the best parts created by trial and error. Once you understand this, you will love your items even more.
Leather is cut symmetrically from the back for easy processing. This is a piece of unprocessed cowhide. Also known as whole hide.
[Back: Known for being the toughest and has the highest fiber density]
Although it is cut to a uniform thickness at the processing stage, the fiber density in the back part is high. It is heavier and firmer than the abdomen. It doesn’t stretch or distort as much as other areas, so it is often used for the bottom and side parts of bags.
[Belly: Characterized by being soft and light in weight]
It is soft and light in weight, and it is easy to process, but it also stretches easily. Therefore, it is sometimes used as a lining for bags or as an insole for shoes. The edges of the abdomen are so soft that they are rarely used.
[Leg: Strong and characterized by fiber density]
The legs have front and rear legs, and they are thick and suitable for processing. The forefoot and hindfoot are each characterized by fiber density, and the hindfoot has higher fiber density. Used for processing small items such as bag handles and wallets.
How about other mateiral?
[Pig]
Pig leather is known for its durability, softness and high breathability. The back is the strongest. Due to its large pores that penetrate all layers of the leather, it is often used for shoe insoles.
[Sheep]
Known for "Mouton" used with its fur. Has good heat retention and resilience with densely grown fine hair, it is also used for cold protection gear used in the military as well as for medical purposes. Lamb is a baby sheep within the first year of life.
[Horse]
Horses, which gain and lose a lot of weight, are known for their dense fibers. The biggest feature of horse leather is the rear part called the shell. Also called a cordovan, it is a highly valuable part that is elastic and has few wrinkles.
It may differ with size and design, but here we will introduce how to cut out parts for typical products. Which part does your favorite item use?
Bags
Cut out 5 sides of the bag, centering on the back where the fibers are dense. It is important for the leather to be strong and have little distortion because it is often the case that heavy items are put in.
Belts
Use the strong part from the back to the abdomen. The cutting method differs depending on the belt width and purpose, but many belts use the leather sideways.
Gloves
Here we introduce women's gloves. One pair of gloves is cut out from the leather on the back. For women’s gloves, it is delicately sewn, and for men, it is sewn in consideration of strength.
